“一切都…湿wet。”

睡眠被剥夺了,并且比我过去至少几个月来更加放松,这是我的大脑可以控制的最佳描述。

克里斯汀(Christine),友好的管理者之一 科琳娜荒野体验, told me earlier that there’d been a bushfire across the river just last week. Now, looking around me at the waterlogged and muddy forest floor, the tree-fern branches lined with water droplets, and the patchwork of different coloured mosses covering almost everything, it’s pretty hard to imagine.

在科林纳远足

The hiking options from Corinna are many. I’d advise checking out the 科林纳活动地图 以获得更全面的清单,包括各种长度和难度的加息。更妙的是,到达科琳娜时与克里斯汀聊天。我在这里列出了我们与孩子们进行的三次短暂远足的详细信息。

怀特河步道
长度: 4公里(赛道)
时间: 1 – 2 hrs
年级: 简单
入口位置: 这条小径可以双向行走,在科林纳(Corinna)露营地的东侧和荒野都设有步道。他们清楚地签名。

老电报山
长度: 1.5公里(往返)
时间: 20分钟
年级: 中等
入口位置: 签名的木板路就位于Tarkine Hotel酒店对面。还通往洞穴小龙虾观赏平台。

Huon Pine Walk
长度: 600 m(回程)
时间: 20分钟
年级: 简单
入口位置: The boardwalk begins from the car park, to the west of the “Fatman Barge”.
更多的信息: 这条步行带入了一段有趣的河边植被,其中显然包括古老的休恩松树。轮椅,婴儿车和行动不便的人都可以使用。

我们只有5分钟的路程 怀特河步道,从我们的荒野撤退到科林纳(Corinna)几步之遥。好像已经回到了侏罗纪时代的冈瓦纳大陆时代。

A little further on, the low drone of a generator at Corinna fades away completely, and there’s silence. Never complete silence, but the kind of silence that’s only broken by the occasional buzzing insect, the song of a fairy wren 要么 flame robin, 要么 the excited chatter of two little nature-loving kids. It’s blissful.

慢慢漫步,我们爬上暴露的长满苔藓的树根,人行横道的天然楼梯,在光滑的岩石上越过一条小溪。

Though the walk is listed as a one hour circuit, we’ve already been walking for over an hour when we reach Whyte River. The kids are more than happy to take their time exploring this magnificent place and so are we, especially since there hasn’t been a single complaint from either of them the entire time.

我们在一条小河旁的鸭嘴兽观景台上坐下来吃小吃,就在小径旁。不幸的是,经过漫长的昼夜降雨之后,怀特河咆哮了。我们似乎不太可能看到鸭嘴兽,所以我们不会流连忘返。

The rest of the walk follows the Whyte and Pieman Rivers back to Corinna and, though the circuit takes us 2 hours in total, this part seems to fly by. The kids have been so good that we’ve promised them a bowl of chips at the pub when we get back, so I can probably already taste my amber reward.

坐在酒吧的阳台上,我们在步行中反思。两个孩子都告诉我们,这条小路最喜欢的部分是“一切”,最不喜欢的部分是“什么都没有!”

考虑完整和全面 丛林漫步失败 we’ve experienced in the recent past, we’re proud and happy.

 

Almost everything is covered in moss on the 怀特河步道 - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
Almost everything is covered in moss on the 怀特河步道

 

暴露的树根形成天然楼梯 on the 怀特河步道 - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
暴露的树根形成天然楼梯

 

Crossing a creek on the 怀特河步道 - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
在湿滑的岩石上越过一条小溪

 

A creek on the 怀特河步道 - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
The creek was one of our favourite spots on 怀特河步道

 

It'最美丽的次要细节 on 怀特河步道 - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
It’最美丽的次要细节

 

The fairy princess was a happy little hiker, but still had to be holding someone's hand at all times
The fairy princess was a happy little hiker, but still had to be holding someone’s hand at all times

 

怀特河步道(Whyte River Walk)上的funghi覆盖了苔藓上没有覆盖的任何东西-塔肯旷野-科林纳-塔斯马尼亚
Anything that isn’t covered in moss is covered in funghi

 

沿着派曼河徒步旅行 on the 怀特河步道 - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
沿着派曼河徒步旅行

 

***

 

从我们的荒野静修处的后方阳台,只有一米之遥,就是纠结着热带雨林边缘的蕨类植物和藤蔓缠结的墙壁。我们一直坐着,欣赏了几分钟的景象,当时出现了两个蓬松的肥厚的西瓜,然后跳到阳台的边缘。

“我认为他们想成为我的朋友,尼尔。”

The fairy princess instantly falls in love with anything furry and cute. The pademelons are certainly no exception.

她说:“他们的名字叫Pinkpurple和Rainbow”。

We all share a chuckle at her choice of names, but after a minute 要么 so I notice with surprise that there’s complete silence. Both the kidlets are sitting cross-legged on the timber decking, their eyes wide with amazement at these adorable creatures. For minutes, they savour their close encounter without a word, taking in their every movement.

 

Pinkpurple the pademelon at our Corinna wilderness retreat
Pinkpurple the pademelon at our Corinna wilderness retreat

 

It’s official. All four of us have already fallen in love with Corinna, and we’ve only been here for a few hours.

Our wilderness retreat has the look of a rustic 1880s miner’s cottage on the outside, but inside is beautifully restored with a modern bathroom and kitchen facilities. We’re all excited to see we’ll be sleeping on a mezzanine loft under sloped ceilings. Everything about the place is charming, right down to the tree-branch door handles.

我们可以轻松地在科林纳度过美好的一天,在这个美丽的住宿环境中放松身心,但是这里还有很多事情要做。

During our three days we do a few hikes, take gigabytes of photos, stroll around the town learning about its history as a gold mining settlement, and have a bowl of chips and a beer on the pub’s veranda as we watch the “Fatman Barge” slowly move cars across the Pieman River.

On one unfortunately wet and windy day we even take a cruise 20 kilometres downstream to Pieman Heads on the Arcadia II, an impressive 74 year old boat crafted from Huon Pine and Tasmanian Hardwood. It turns out to be the perfect way to wait out the weather and still get our nature fix for the day, just from a different angle.

What we don’t get to do – and what I’d happily go back to spend another couple of weeks doing – is have a proper meal at the pub’s Tannin Restaurant, spot a platypus, do some fishing, go kayaking, 要么 have a better crack at getting through the multitude of hikes of varying lengths and difficulties. Better yet, Corinna offers the chance to kayak your way to a hiking trail that will lead you back to town on foot (staff will pick up your kayak for you later).

这间豪华而环保的住宿是Tarkine Wilderness内唯一的住宿地点。您可能会想到某个地方的这种特殊地位有些卑鄙,但是Corinna的工作人员不过友好而友善。

我们在这里有宾至如归的感觉。

 

我们家外之家 at 科琳娜-塔金原野-塔斯马尼亚
我们家外之家

 

荒野中的主卧室 - 色丁 Wilderness - Tasmania
荒野中的主卧室

 

在休息室放松 - 科琳娜-塔金原野-塔斯马尼亚
在休息室放松

 

***

 

“这里有很多树。
Did we then put them there, that they are ours to take away? Did we plant, tend,
要么 care for them, that they might be ours to uproot? By what right then, do we
take that which is not ours; were they given to us, that we might do with them as
我们希望?”

色丁,由世界自然基金会澳大利亚分社出版(Ralph Ashton编辑)

 

在Tar​​kine酒店对面的马路对面,一条木板路将我们引到一条充满水的小河床上,穴居小龙虾看上去像一座小城市,其穴口类似于微型泥浆摩天大楼。

我们决定继续进入热带雨林 老电报山 步行时,木板路很快就变成了一条模糊不清的泥泞小路,只有粉红色的丝带和树上的箭头才能向我们展示道路。

We scramble over fallen trees and duck under vines sheathed with lichen. Losing the path on several occasions, we end up exploring sections of forest darkened by the canopy of giant tree ferns, leatherwood, and myrtle beech, where it’s possible nobody else has stood for years.

我从未去过如此荒凉的地方。

色丁占地面积约4,500平方公里,是地球上最大的温带雨林之一,也是南半球最大的一片。在超过6500万年的时间里,它几乎没有被改动过。

The history of this place goes back much further than 1879, when gold was first discovered at Corinna. The most fascinating history lies inside the ancient trees surrounding us, within the decaying layers of moss, soil, and leaf-litter that we’re walking on, and in the hearts of the indigenous community who continue to have a strong link with the area (it was the indigenous 色丁r people who inspired its name).

我很幸运能有机会把孩子们带到这里与他们分享这个地方,这让我感到非常幸运。我试着向他们解释,每10,000名澳大利亚人中就有1人来过这里, unlikely to still be like this when they get to my age。他们小脸上的表情告诉我,至少在某种程度上,他们有点了解。无论哪种方式,他们都度过了美好的时光。

 

木板路的尽头 on 老电报山 Walk - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
木板路的尽头

 

Not quite sure if we're still on 老电报山 Walk - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
Not quite sure if we’re still on 老电报山 Walk

 

Huon Pine Walk - 色丁 Wilderness - Corinna - Tasmania
Huon Pine Walk

 

***

 

If you’re keen on seeing more of our little family holiday to Tasmania, check out 塔斯马尼亚与孩子们的第1部分, and also this wee video I put together…The fairy princess does her best TV host impression. Cuteness abounds.

 

 

在塔斯马尼亚之旅中,我们是塔斯马尼亚精神,科琳娜荒野体验和埃奇沃特德文波特的客人。与往常一样,这对我在Bushwalking Blog上发表的观点没有影响。

 

需要知道

一般
Corinna没有移动接收,唯一的电话是在酒吧。住宿不提供免费wifi上网,也不提供任何形式的互联网连接。这是一个断开连接的地方。接受它。相信我……这对您会非常有益。

我强烈建议您携带不依赖移动数据接收的GPS来显示地图(即不是平板电脑或智能手机)。如果没有汽车的GPS,导航对我们来说压力将更大,而当您的车中已经有孩子时,这并不是您所需要的。

住所
There are a handful of campsites at Corinna, and the pub has guesthouse-style group accommodation. The most attractive option is the wilderness retreats. They are quite affordable and, considering the wild weather that Tassie is so well known for, I think they’re worthwhile. Check out Corinna的网站 有关定价等的详细信息。

The wilderness retreat kitchens are equipped with a stove-top, so if self-catering don’t bring anything that requires an oven. The other option is to eat at the Tannin Restaurant, which appeared to have some quite interesting dishes on offer. It’s a very short walk from both the wilderness retreats and campground.

 

你有没有带小孩签出塔斯马尼亚岛?去过Tarkine吗?有任何提示或故事要讲吗?请通过以下评论让我们知道。

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